Plastic Padding
Plastic Padding
It seems there is a product called Plastic Padding from Sweden. A friend suggested it for a small home repair that I need to make and he thought HomePro had it but I spent 30 minutes looking and asking and could not find it. Does anyone know where I can get it here?
My brain is like an Internet browser; 12 tabs are open and 5 of them are not responding, there's a GIF playing in an endless loop,... and where is that annoying music coming from?
Re: Plastic Padding
I had a look around the web and found this for you, it might help:
Henkel (Thailand) Ltd., Bangkok
999/9 The offices at Centralworld 35/F, Rama 1 Rd., Khwaeng Patumwan, Khet Patumwan
Bangkok 10330
Thailand
Phone: +66-2-209-8000
Fax: +66-2-209-8008
Regards,
Henkel (Thailand) Ltd., Bangkok
999/9 The offices at Centralworld 35/F, Rama 1 Rd., Khwaeng Patumwan, Khet Patumwan
Bangkok 10330
Thailand
Phone: +66-2-209-8000
Fax: +66-2-209-8008
Regards,
Re: Plastic Padding
RS Components in BKK have it, and will presumably send it down for you ... RS Components
Looks like someone's already had a bit out of the tube though
'barrys' on here may know if you can get it, or an equivalent, locally.
SJ
Looks like someone's already had a bit out of the tube though
'barrys' on here may know if you can get it, or an equivalent, locally.
SJ
Re: Plastic Padding
hhfarang
You don't mention the type of repair you require. Had a lot of experience with plastic padding in my younger (cash poor) days when repairing rust worm holes on my old car, used as a body filler.
The product you quote I suspect is for fiberglass gell coat (outer surface) repair and is classed as a 2 part epoxy resin.
Depending on your repair these are available at Home Pro in many forms from liquid to putty, I think the product you mention is half way between.
Curing times vary and as a general rule the slower the cure the stronger the joint. I use all types on a regular basis while building my radio control model aircraft, the liquid types can be mixed with balsa dust (or any other base material) to thicken it, using it to fill gaps, much like the putty.
The putty after cure can be filed and threaded and will even cure under water, expect a small amount of shrinkage as it cures.
Get back to me with more specifics on the repair if you want more info.
Chas
You don't mention the type of repair you require. Had a lot of experience with plastic padding in my younger (cash poor) days when repairing rust worm holes on my old car, used as a body filler.
The product you quote I suspect is for fiberglass gell coat (outer surface) repair and is classed as a 2 part epoxy resin.
Depending on your repair these are available at Home Pro in many forms from liquid to putty, I think the product you mention is half way between.
Curing times vary and as a general rule the slower the cure the stronger the joint. I use all types on a regular basis while building my radio control model aircraft, the liquid types can be mixed with balsa dust (or any other base material) to thicken it, using it to fill gaps, much like the putty.
The putty after cure can be filed and threaded and will even cure under water, expect a small amount of shrinkage as it cures.
Get back to me with more specifics on the repair if you want more info.
Chas
Re: Plastic Padding
Chaspul,
Thanks, and your right; I looked the stuff up on the net and there are different types for different jobs.
What I have is one of those stainless steel soap dishes that attaches to the shower wall with a single point (two small screws very close together). The plaster/cement block behind the tile crumbled as I think a housekeeper used the soap dish as a hand hold while bending down. We had a wood worker here who took a look and hollowed out the rubble from the (approximately 1.5 cm hole in the wall) and inserted a piece of a wooden dowel, then screwed the two small screws into it. That didn't last long as it is in the shower and the wood got wet and lost hold with the screws.
So, a Swedish friend suggested I use plastic padding to fill the hole, let it dry, then drill new holes for spreadable screw anchors. He said that would hold better than cement, plaster, wood, or any other material in the wet conditions.
I was thinking epoxy, but I'm afraid that would be too hard to drill and anchor the screws into once it set. I got the impression that plastic padding was similar but not as hard as epoxy.
So, with that usage in mind, which product would you recommend?
Thanks, and your right; I looked the stuff up on the net and there are different types for different jobs.
What I have is one of those stainless steel soap dishes that attaches to the shower wall with a single point (two small screws very close together). The plaster/cement block behind the tile crumbled as I think a housekeeper used the soap dish as a hand hold while bending down. We had a wood worker here who took a look and hollowed out the rubble from the (approximately 1.5 cm hole in the wall) and inserted a piece of a wooden dowel, then screwed the two small screws into it. That didn't last long as it is in the shower and the wood got wet and lost hold with the screws.
So, a Swedish friend suggested I use plastic padding to fill the hole, let it dry, then drill new holes for spreadable screw anchors. He said that would hold better than cement, plaster, wood, or any other material in the wet conditions.
I was thinking epoxy, but I'm afraid that would be too hard to drill and anchor the screws into once it set. I got the impression that plastic padding was similar but not as hard as epoxy.
So, with that usage in mind, which product would you recommend?
My brain is like an Internet browser; 12 tabs are open and 5 of them are not responding, there's a GIF playing in an endless loop,... and where is that annoying music coming from?
Re: Plastic Padding
Hi hhfarang
For a hole this size definitely the epoxy putty, this would be stronger than any building filler, comes in convenient size packs and can be easily drilled once cured.
I brought some from Home Pro, 2 individual sticks about 3 inches long wrapped in foil and packed in clear plastic tube, cannot give you name as the sticks sweated and I discarded the paper insert.
Under cut the hole if possible so that it is larger at the bottom this will strengthen the holding power of the epoxy plug preventing it pulling out, ensure hole is dry and dust free.
Cut equal amounts of the putty and mix as per instructions, this is best done between thumb and forefingers. Make sure that you have enough to entirely fill the hole in one go leaving about 0.5 mm proud of surface, not more as you will have a lot of sanding to bring it flush, discard any excess mixed putty.
Use plenty of finger pressure so that it contacts the walls of the hole. a drop of water (spit works well) will smooth the plug.
After the repair has set, usually half an hour It will be possible to sand flush. However, I would wait 24 hours until it reaches full strength before drilling, this should be done with a HSS bit on slow speed, not a masonary drill.
One last thing cover the repair with a drop of enamel paint to waterproof, as although epoxys such as "Araldite" look shiny, they are in fact hydroscopic and will alow moisture to pass.
Best of luck
Chas
For a hole this size definitely the epoxy putty, this would be stronger than any building filler, comes in convenient size packs and can be easily drilled once cured.
I brought some from Home Pro, 2 individual sticks about 3 inches long wrapped in foil and packed in clear plastic tube, cannot give you name as the sticks sweated and I discarded the paper insert.
Under cut the hole if possible so that it is larger at the bottom this will strengthen the holding power of the epoxy plug preventing it pulling out, ensure hole is dry and dust free.
Cut equal amounts of the putty and mix as per instructions, this is best done between thumb and forefingers. Make sure that you have enough to entirely fill the hole in one go leaving about 0.5 mm proud of surface, not more as you will have a lot of sanding to bring it flush, discard any excess mixed putty.
Use plenty of finger pressure so that it contacts the walls of the hole. a drop of water (spit works well) will smooth the plug.
After the repair has set, usually half an hour It will be possible to sand flush. However, I would wait 24 hours until it reaches full strength before drilling, this should be done with a HSS bit on slow speed, not a masonary drill.
One last thing cover the repair with a drop of enamel paint to waterproof, as although epoxys such as "Araldite" look shiny, they are in fact hydroscopic and will alow moisture to pass.
Best of luck
Chas