3 weeks in Koh Chang

[philip]

Hi everyone,

I thought you might be interested in my trip during the first three weeks of January, to the island of Koh Chang, which lies c300km south east of BKK. The island is commecially-developed along part of its west coast, but under-developed on the east coast. It's a 45 min ferry across from the mainland at Laeng Gnob, nearest airport Trat.

The island has a mountainous interior, and although the east coast is generally level, the road running along the west coast has some pretty serious 1 in 3 hills to negotiate, 1st gear for most vehicles. Songthaews (pickup trucks with bench seats parallel to the sides) ply the length of the island as a form of bus-service - tell the driver your destination and he'll quote you a price, but get on without agreeing the price, particularly in the late evening, and the price will turn out to be double what you expect) !

The towns are pretty commercialised, with the usual range of schmutter shops, massage places, restaurants and bars, generally offering reasonable value for an island, certainly cheaper than Koh Samui, but more expensive than mainland outlets, hardly surprising really. Coastal ribbon-development shops, bars and hotels line the road with gaps at the steeper bits. The journey by songthaew down the whole way from the ferry terminal to Bang Baow at the southern tip of Koh Chang would cost about 250 baht pp although you don't get exclusive use of the vehicle. Short hops were usually 50/100 baht. Nookie bars, as I call them, weren't so common. Only a couple were evident and they were noisy and full of bg's and the occasional katoey. Easily avoided for anyone on a family holiday or with a prudish Mrs !

I went way up-market, selecting the Amari Emerald Cove Resort & Spa, which was superb, but really extremely expensive by thai standards, hogmanay night alone, costing 17,000 baht for bed and breakfast, plus the compulsory "gala dinner" (I'll arrive on 1st January next time, if there is ever a next time). The room-rate progressivwely dropped as each day passed, after the New Year holiday. The en-suite, a/c rooms, common areas, pools and sunbathing area were quite superb, as was the wonderful spa, but as with any 4/5 star resort hotel, meals, drinks and suchlike were expensive, such that my Aberdonian nature guided me out of the hotel every night to enjoy the range of wee cafes and restaurants of which there are dozens to choose from, a meal for two with a couple of drinks, for 500/1000 baht as a rough guide.

The climate was hot and dry, 38 deg C most days but the sea temp was a wonderful 30 deg. It was possible to rent a speedboat for exclusive use or inexpensively join the snorkel-diving crowd for a day amongst the islands for 100 baht pp. The beaches were narrow at high tide, but the Gulf of Thailand seems to have a long tidal reach, and low-tide revealed a vast expanse of sand every evening, albeit darkness fell at c 6.30 pm. On the whole, the beaches were quiet.

I chose to pay for the convenience of an exclusive minibus transfer both ways at 5000 baht each way, including the ferry-crossing, door to door between the Amari and my BKK hotel. The service was reliable, on time and polite.

We had a relaxing holiday, at considerable expense for the hotel, less so for food and local transport. I can recommend the island and in particular, ther other islands of the Mu Koh Chang national marine park archipelago of 50 or so islands, it's a beautiful area. Away from Koh Chang, accommodation is very much less refined and commensurately less expensive of course.

Next year, I fancy it's about time to reconsider Krabi, which sadly I had to cancel last year, post-tsunami. I still like Hua-Hin and will return once I retire in April 2007, until then, it is one's duty to see as much of Thailand as possible, in the limited holidays which full-time employment offers ! I'm not complaining, glad to have a job !.

Cheerrs.

Philip

[buksida]

Great trip report Philip, I went to Chang some years ago and by your account it seems to have developed quite a bit. There were certainly no "nookie bars" and the roads were all in a bit of a state.

The hotel sounds awesome but way beyond what my wallet would stretch to!

Let me know if you want any tips on the Krabi area, have been there several times.

[linktolinh]

wow 3 weeks in Kohchang sound quite long to me,

I only did a driving trip from BKK to Koh Chang for 10 days and we actually had a lot of funs too.

Our group was 6 and we stayed in Seafront Resort, when it's low tide we could walk out to the sea for a long long walk. Everything was great except for the rain... all days and nights long ( It was in July)

The most funny things we did were driving at night and get drunk after changing 4 or 5 quiet cool bars. and "chasing waterfalls"

All waterfall trails were closed at the time of raining season caused of danger. But we sneaked in and tried to get up to find the starting point of several waterfalls. It was so dangerous but exciting. I was lucky not to be washed away after a serious mistake, if my friend did not graps me hard. Thanks god he is a carpenter and he is strong otherwise I'm not sitting here typing those words.

For me Koh Chang is a great place with all sweetest memories... Just some sharing..:-)

[Bamboo Grove]

Welcome back Linh, you've been away for awhile. Is everything ok with you?

[linktolinh]

:-) thanks for ur care anh Bamboo...

I was gone for a while cause I lost my connection to Thailand and I don't have much "update" and "useful" information to share and contribute to HHAD anymore.

Anyway I will go back to Thailand by the end of this month... so...

[Norseman]

Looking forward to hear from you again linktolinh!!
Keep up with your nice postings.