Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

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Big Boy
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Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by Big Boy »

Part 1

Day 1 – 21 July 2023

Ratchaburi, why Ratchaburi? I hear you ask. I’ve been to Ratchaburi dozens of times to watch the footie, but I’ve never really looked at what else Ratchaburi has to offer. I go from Hua Hin to the stadium every other week, but never see real Ratchaburi. Aside from that, it is really unseen Thailand, and off the main tourist track (apart from maybe the Damnoen Saduak floating market, which in my opinion is the best in Thailand). Being off the tourist track, everything is Thai prices, which is what I was also looking for.

We were planning to leave home at 14:00hrs. It almost never happened, both my wife and I were struck down by a mystery stomach bug. (Too much information, I know, but my wife actually wore a nappy, just in case – it wasn’t needed).

We used my son to load the car with my wife’s usual medical supplies, and I simply turned up to drive the short 2 hour journey to Ratchaburi.

We almost had a disaster en-route (nothing to do with the nappy). I signaled to pull into a service station (usual mirror, signal manoeuvre – I was clear). As I was turning in, some clown on a big bike decided to undertake at incredible speed down the hard shoulder. The fact I didn’t kill him was nothing to do with me. He somehow managed to swerve around me, and stay on the bike. It certainly shook me up. I had a pee, and went to check that my rear indicators were working – they were. He was obviously not concentrating, else he’d have passed on the correct side, but I reckon he had a need for a nappy afterwards.

We checked into the Western Grand Hotel, Ratchaburi. This is a much nicer hotel than I would normally pay for, but you get a lot of hotel for your money out in the Boonies. I’ve used this hotel a few times when getting back late from football matches.
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We unpacked (both feeling a little better by now), and rested for an hour before finding somewhere for an evening meal. I’ve spent several nights in Ratchaburi in the past, and it is a typical non-tourist Thai town – people go to bed when the sun goes down. Everything except 7-11s and garages close.

I was scrolling through potential restaurants on Google Maps, and a place called On The River jumped out at me. The food looked Western, and the setting was right on the river. Ratchaburi is very Thai, and the last thing I was expecting was Western Food. I showed it to my wife, and she like the look of the place as well.

Off we went. Google Maps said 7 minutes away. Google Maps is a liar. I’d already taken about 6 legitimate U-turns on the way, when the stupid young lady told me to turn left. Well, I was truly on the riverside, but it was U-turn mania. Turn left, do a U-turn; turn right, do a U-turn, turn left, do a U-turn…... This went on for several minutes without me actually disappearing up my own backside. I stopped, pulled over, and looked at the map and tried to relate it to where I actually was on the map. There was the restaurant on the other side of the river. All of the U-turns in the world was not going to teach my car to do the breaststroke. I sat there, and worked out a sensible route. I would head back into town, do a U-turn, go over the bridge, and take the proper left. I did that, and there were 3 more U-turns – it’s a good job traffic in Ratchaburi is not too busy (and this was evening rush hour). This was followed by turn left and I was going down a narrow lane, which was actually a U-turn (surprise, surprise), with the river just after the U. As I approached the U, Google Maps said turn left – we were there! My head was spinning.

No other cars in the car park. A very modern looking building. We went inside – very posh. Was this really Ratchaburi? We had our choice of table. Of course, we chose to overlook the river (Mae Klong). The river was deserted – I’d have been happier to see some boats on the water. In fact, it could just as easily have been the River Tamar with the tide half in.
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The food was superb. It was prepared and presented fantastically. Of course, this is Thailand, and the chips were frozen and cooked very badly, but that is Western cuisine in Thailand. Trained chefs using frozen chips in Thailand is one of my big beefs about Thai culinary skills. Why can’t they peel and chip a potato? It truly was a meal I was not expecting this weekend, and I enjoyed it.

Returning to the hotel was not without incident either. It turned out the narrow lane was one way, so I had to turn left towards the river, and made 3 more U-turns before hitting the main road, and a quiet ride back to the hotel.

It was then time to plot the rest of this visit. We had decided to have this weekend away at very short notice, without any time for proper research. It was time to speak nicely to Mr Google.

………………..to be continued/
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by Bamboo Grove »

You may have read this already, it's a post from 2012

Just out of interest, what is there to see and do around Ratchaburi?
For example: Khao Chong Phran Bat cave, Khao Bin stalactite cave, nice hill guest houses near the Burmese border in Suan Phueng area, couple of very beautiful Chinese temples on hills when you go to Chong Phran Bat cave.
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by Big Boy »

I must have read it if it was 2012, and I think it must have been what prompted me to go to the Bat Cave, which was fantastic. You'll read my almost disastrous report on the Khao Bin Cave in Part 3.
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by STEVE G »

....In fact, it could just as easily have been the River Tamar with the tide half in.
They should moor some rusty old warships up there to make you feel at home!
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by Big Boy »

That would do the trick nicely, or even the odd decaying nuclear sub :laugh:
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by Dannie Boy »

Trained chefs using frozen chips in Thailand is one of my big beefs about Thai culinary skills. Why can’t they peel and chip a potato?

I guess one of the reasons is that they never know how many people are going to want chips - buy 1kg, 2 kg of potatoes - is that enough or too much? Easier (maybe not better) to have a few kgs of frozen chips in the freezer to take out as needed - no waste!!
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by Big Boy »

Same argument can be used throughout the kitchen. How much beef? How much pork? If a chef is a chef, he should at least have a little helper that can peel a spud. How long does it take to peel a spud? Chip portions aren't exactly huge in Thailand.

Maybe we should stick to microwave meals straight out of the freezer - eliminate any chance of waste :tsk:
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by caller »

I don't think Thai people do real chips. Frozen is the way.
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by HHTel »

When I'm in the mood and have time to kill, I'll make 'triple' cooked chips and freeze them after the second fry. They'll keep in the freezer for several weeks. Freeze them in batches and all they need is the final fry. Excellent results if you have the time.
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

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Left there yesterday, after an overnight pitstop (non city), on the way back from Nan.

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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by Big Boy »

I didn't visit this time, but have been to Damnoen Saduak several times in the past. IMHO the best floating market I've visited.
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

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I didn't visit this time, but have been to Damnoen Saduak several times in the past. IMHO the best floating market I've visited.
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by buksida »

Did a couple of nights in Ratchaburi in 2017. The town is as dead as a Dodo after dark as most generic Thai towns are. We stayed at a place called the Tara Spa Hotel on the river which was ok but geared up for the Bangkok selfie crew. The Khao Ngu Stone Park is worth a visit but don't go at the weekend. Didn't get to the bat cave or floating market.
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by Big Boy »

That is exactly what I thought based on previous visits. We didn't find any bar scene (as non-drinkers, we didn't look), but the restaurant scene has become quite lively.

Today's report will include The Khao Ngu Stone Park.
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Re: Ratchaburi - Trip/Photo Report

Post by Big Boy »

Part 2

Day 2 – 22 July 2023

Wat Mahathat Worawihan

Thank you Mr Google. I wasn’t even aware that Ratchaburi had ancient relics. This temple was less than a mile from the hotel, and I decided this would be our first stop. It was a temple over 1,000 years old, yet it was fairly well preserved. We spent a while looking around (wheelchair friendly, which you wouldn’t get at Ayutthaya).

There is a modern-day version of this temple in Petchaburi that I visited a few years previously. The names are almost identical, and you can most certainly see the similarities. A beautifully preserved temple, all the same.
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A few photos later, we were on our way again.

Khao Ngu Stone Park

This was one of my main goals of this trip. I saw somebody’s photos from a similar trip about 8 years ago, and have wanted to do the trip ever since.

The satnav sort of took us in through a side entrance with a very impressive standing Buddha image watching over us.
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This was a sort of drive through version of the park. I’m not sure what was hardest, avoiding the old women selling chunks of sweetcorn to feed the monkeys, or avoiding the monkeys themselves, begging for food. Both were a serious traffic hazard. Basically, this was just driving through a leafy lane, which was not why I was here. This was not the Khao Ngu Stone Park I had come to see.

I spotted a car par to my left as I was avoiding more monkeys. I decided that looked a better prospect, so just for a change, I did a U-turn and made my way back to the car park. I knew the car park was the right place because in my research, I had read about a statue of a giant snake at the entrance.
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Our timing for this one was as bad as bad gets. As we were getting out of the car, 12 tour buses of schoolkids arrived and were alighting. I needed to get a photo of snake statue that the park entrance is famous for first, so the kids got to the Stone Park before us.
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In reality, the kids were very well mannered, and did not pose a problem at all. They all gave way to the wheelchair as we passed, and a few wanted to practice their English. However, they did photobomb many photo opportunities (not intentionally).

The stone park was a big disappointment. The walk was much shorter than publicity photos would have you believe – probably about 25% of the Khao Tao Lake walk that I do most days.
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Mind you, getting My wife over the suspension bridge both ways made my ears flash a bit – the upward slope was quite fierce, and the downward slope needed all of my weight to hold the wheelchair back – it doesn’t look steep in the photos, but believe me, it was. The kids may have been polite, but not one offered to help push or pull over the bridge. I think they were having too much fun watching my ears flash. If it had been raining, I don’t think my shoes would have had enough grip to get up the slope.
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As you can imagine, by the time I got back to the car, I was soaked with sweat, and looking forward to the air conditioning. I turned the engine on and nothing. Yes, the engine was fine, but nothing was coming out of the air vents. My blower had given up on me. We’d have to make do with open windows – not the same, but better than nothing. It was the weekend, so I wouldn’t be able to get this sorted until I got back to Hua Hin. Every red traffic light was black hole of Calcutta hell. Our next stop was 16 miles away at Khao Bin Cave. I was tempted to retire, and go back to the hotel, but decided to battle on. When we arrived at Khao Bin Cave, I tried again, and they were working. Cars will never cease to baffle me.

………………..to be continued/
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