Photo Trip Report: Riding Across Nepal

[buksida]

Nepal. It was a crazy idea from the start. An acquaintance had been there on some wild motorcycle ride “into thin air” in the Himalayas so I decided to follow in his footsteps, or wheel tracks to be more precise.

The trip was booked and planned in April last year so I had plenty of time to get prepared and psyche myself up for what would be the ride of a lifetime, a 'bucket list event'. The six day trip would take us into the Annapurna Conservation Area in the Himalayas on Royal Enfields from Hearts and Tears motorcycle club in Pokhara. I would be in country in total for about two weeks.

The timing however could have been better as the Coronavirus outbreak had brought the world to a standstill with travel restrictions coming into force. Unperturbed, I braved Don Meuang airport which was virtually deserted and boarded the three hour flight to Kathmandu.

Kathmandu
From the air the city looked like someone had emptied a giant bucket of Lego bricks over the landscape. A sprawling mass of multi-coloured blocks as far as the eye could see made up suburban Kathmandu. The devastation from the 2015 earthquake was clearly still evident five years later and there was very little high rise here. The visa on arrival was quick and easy, $30 for 15 days, $45 for 30.

On the ground it was a different story, a seething mass of people and vehicles all jostling for position. Coming from Thailand the temperature drop was noticeable and it actually went below ten degrees on the first night during which I froze. I headed out to a local expat hangout called Sam’s bar for a few Gorkha beers to begin this Nepalese peregrination.

Thamel is the traveller and tourist district of Kathmandu and my first day there was a wet and cold one. Tiny twisting alleys and streets are lined with textiles shops, trekking suppliers, tourist tat, money exchanges and quirky little courtyards with coffee and beer. Prices for food and accommodation were noticeably cheaper than Thailand while beer was similarly priced.

I headed for the roof of the hotel for a great view over the city and my first glimpse of the Himalayas which was absolutely breathtaking.

I vowed to return at the end of the trip to get some more photos of this fascinating city.

To follow ... Kathmandu to Pokhara

[sateeb]

Nice photos. Did you take a flight to Lukla airport (Tenzing Hilary) hell of a landing and take off?

[buksida]

No, landed at Tribhuvan International Airport which did offer some spectacular views and a steep banking to get the bird down!

[Big Boy]

I'm not sure what to say about the first batch. Apart from the incredible background, nearly every photo eerily resembles somewhere I've been (obviously haven't), but with subtle differences. Maybe my mind is reflecting back on some of the small roads around Bath. A real hotchpotch of buildings - obviously influenced by Thai planning permission and wired by Thai engineers. Having said that, every little road looks so different to the next, and must have been delightful to wander from one area to the next,

[migrant]

Great pics, as always! Keep them coming

[Sabai Jai]

Thanks for edition one. I spent a few months in Nepal some years ago (drove there from UK) and have some very fond memories of the Kingdom. Looking forward to the next episodes
Kind Regards

[buksida]

Kat reminded me a lot of Hanoi or parts of Yangon with its little streets and alleys and trinket stores everywhere. This was the tourist area though and leaving the city showed an excess of filth with mountains of uncleared trash and rivers of plastic - its not a pretty place.

[buksida]

It was time to get on the road and head west to the lakeside town of Pokhara to pick up the bikes. I wondered how a 200 kilometer journey would take six hours but after a short stint on the road it became clear.

Hundreds of busses and trucks were battling for road supremacy on a single lane twisty road with more potholes in it than the moon. Driving lunacy appears to be a feature in all Asian countries and Nepal is no exception though there are far fewer accidents than in Thailand. The journey reminded me of roads in north Sumatra and the idiocy that comes with them.

The scenery was pretty spectacular as the road hugged the hillsides of one huge valley with a raging river cutting down the center of it. Snow covered peaks started to reveal themselves and I knew I was somewhere special. I managed to grab a few roving shots from the vehicle but we didn’t stop specifically to do so hence the low quality.

Finally we rolled into the tourist town of Pokhara in mid-afternoon and checked in to our lakeside hotel a few hours before heading to the clubhouse for trip briefing and to meet our fellow riders.

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To follow: preparing to ride ...

[bigston]

From someone who will never make it there,
what a super and fascinating visual journey , so far,
looking forward to the next chapter.

[PeteC]

What camera were you using Buks?

[buksida]

Nikon D7200. The first few of the streets in Kathmandu were shot on a phone.

[pharvey]

As always, cracking reports and photo's buks - looking forward to the next chapter!

As per BB's post, there are many "familiar sights" despite the fact I've not visited!

[buksida]

The Hearts and Tears team were very professional and made the seven of us on the trip feel at ease from the start. We would be spending six days on the road on Royal Enfield ‘Himalayan’ 411 cc single cylinder machines. These Indian adventure tourers didn’t look like much but they were built like tanks, and for good reason.

The route would take us south into the valleys for a couple of days before turning north into the Annapurna Conservation Area climbing to an elevation of around 4,000 meters. It would be an early start so just a short stroll around the largely deserted town before bed this evening.

https://www.heartsandtears.com/
https://www.royalenfield.com/in/en/moto ... himalayan/

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To follow: Pokhara to Tansen

[buksida]

Day 1 – Pokhara to Srijana Farm
We hit the clubhouse early, checked over our steeds and geared up for the first leg of the journey which would take us south of Pokhara. It was a crystal clear morning and the 7,000 meter Machhapuchhre or the ‘Fishtail’ was reflecting the morning sun across Phewa Lake offering some splendid views.

In total there were seven riders made up of four Aussies, two Singaporeans, me the lone Pommy, and four Nepalese crew. A support jeep carried all of our gear, spare fuel, parts and medical supplies – we were going to need it.

The bikes were easy to handle with just enough power for local roads and their numerous obstacles. I rapidly realized that there would be virtually no flat or straight sections of road on this expedition.

Our first stop was a viewpoint overlooking the town and lake with a stunning backdrop of the Annapurnas. The first time you set eyes on the largest mountains in the world is a very humbling experience.

Moving on it was a couple of hours completely off-road through rustic villages, around steep hills with vertical drop offs, and deep mud filled trenches. Back on the ‘highway’ we found a coffee shop for a quick pit-stop before continuing around blind bends and a thousand switchbacks to another stunning viewpoint.

It was harder riding than I expected which demanded full attention on the road and very little on the surroundings. A lunch spot for some Dal Bhat, a local specialty of rice and vegetable and lentil dahl, provided more photo opportunities and a much needed break.

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To follow: Srijana Farm

[Big Boy]

Having read that, I guess I know the answer before I ask. I don't why but I'd assumed you'd gone as a family, with the kids riding pillion. I'm now assuming you travelled alone. Is that correct?

Will study the photos later.