Trip Report: Thailand to Saipan [Long]

[Ratsima]

I live in Thailand and my daughter lives on Saipan. A few months ago I began planning a visit long-delayed by the many typhoons that swept through Saipan in the past couple of years.

Several old friends suggested that I fly HKExpress to Saipan and get to Hong Kong any old way. I decided on Cathay Pacific. Oddly (I thought) none of the online booking services would issue this as a single ticket.

Buying the Cathy Pacific ticket was, of course, easy. The HKExpress booking was impossibly difficult. Every card I tried was declined, but every bank denied that HKExpress had submitted the transaction. I later figured out that the billing system had a currency conversion error which calculated a fare that should have been about US$450 at about US$1500. They eventually fixed that and I bought he ticket and included U-First which was supposed to speed me though the airport transfer. This turned out to be a big lie.

I checked in online with Cathay Pacific, but the HKExpress website just said "booking not allowed".

At the airport I asked Cathay to check my bag through to Saipan and showed them the booking details. The agent said that they don’t have any baggage agreement with HKExpress. I noted that Cathay owns HKExpress and asked how could they not have an agreement? He got the supervisor who said the same thing. So, I hand carried my small bag.

When I got to Hong Kong I headed directly to the HKExpress transfer desk. The surly agent there asked what airline I arrived on. When I told her Cathay Pacific she said they had no agreement with Cathay and that I would have to go through Immigration and check in with HKExpress at Terminal 2.

I went to Immigration, but the screening agent there told me to instead go though transfer security screening. But, there I was asked for a boarding pass. When I told them HKExpress wouldn’t issue me a boarding pass the security guy marched me over to the transfer desk and insisted that the agent issue one. This enraged the surly HKExpress agent who dragged both of us to Immigration where she insisted they let me through.

Immigration was quick after which I walked over to the HKExpress counter at Terminal 2 and was informed that check in for Saipan didn’t open for another hour. The agent suggested that I go get something to eat. I followed the sign for "Restaurants” and found all but one closed. (It was about 5:30 PM.) The only one open was one of those Chinese banquet places with giant revolving tables.

I went back to the agent and asked where I could buy a beer. He said that no beer was available in Terminal 2 and that I’d have to walk back to Terminal 1. I walked around Terminal 1 looking for a bar. Not finding one I went to an information counter where I was told that Terminal 1 had no bars and that the only place to get a beer before security screening was at Wolfgang Puck's. I went there and nursed a very nice Gweilo IPA for an hour.

Back at the HKExpress counter I went though a most amazing security interview asking for the reason for my visit and other useless stuff. I was asked what hotel I was staying at. I said that I was staying at my daughters home. I was asked for the address and explained that Saipan does not not have house or building numbers. This caused great bewilderment and confusion.

I finally got to the check in counter which went smoothly except when he agent asked for my address in Thailand. It is very long. He eventually gave up and just used the house number and province.

I lived on Saipan for 26 years and have flown in and out dozens and dozens of times. Never have I experienced the sort of nonsense HKExpress managed to serve up.

YMMV

[caller]

Interesting report. I do hope you will offer pics as well as appropriate, as I well recall the quality of your earlier trip reports from various places

[Ratsima]

53299EEF-F739-4FC0-A084-F7AE4AFD00EF.jpeg (94.82 KiB) Viewed 526 times

Japanese monument at Banzai Cliff with Suicide Cliff in the background

6E5AD181-9E7E-47D0-AAE5-20B14C9D3DF0.jpeg (100.08 KiB) Viewed 526 times

Beach at War in the Pacific Memorial Park with Managaha Island in the distance.

AC303ADE-800A-4737-B3BD-C41C6CBCB159.jpeg (117.85 KiB) Viewed 526 times

Banzai Cliff

2668302B-64DB-4FB1-918F-24F7A89897F1.jpeg (109.82 KiB) Viewed 526 times

FEMA tent from Typhoon Yutu

0262C4ED-1ADE-4758-A729-8D1330C01985.jpeg (119.97 KiB) Viewed 526 times

Former Flame Tree with LaoLao Bay in the background. Forbidden Island on the right of the distant land mass.

[caller]

Weather looks a bit inclement!

Banzai cliff, suicide cliff, I assume these are local names rather than actual place names - Americanisms, or locals usage?

[Ratsima]

The names are based on the fact that after the Americans invaded Saipan in June of 1944 many Japanese soldiers and civilians committed suicide by jumping off these cliffs.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banzai_Cliff

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suicide_Cliff

[Ratsima]

D4502D7A-CD51-4B32-BA3A-05E7FED1657B.jpeg (106.68 KiB) Viewed 474 times

[Ginjaninja]

Interesting report. I do hope you will offer pics as well as appropriate, as I well recall the quality of your earlier trip reports from various places

Yeah I echo that.... sorry to hear about your travel experience but what about Saipan itself? I had never even heard of the place...


GN.

[Ratsima]

Saipan is the main island of the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands. It is located just north of Guam. It is a US territory, sort of. They use US currency, have US ZIP and Area Codes and most US Federal laws apply. The people are US citizens. It was colonized by Spain in the 16th century, governed by Germany in the early 20th century and by Japan from WWI to the end of WWII. The people voted to form a political union with the United States in 1976.

I lived there from early 1979 until I retired and moved to Thailand in 2005.

Although there were many garment factories in the 80s and 90s, there are none now and the only industry is tourism.

Everything is imported, so the cost of living is quite high.

It is a beautiful tropical island: mostly limestone with some volcanic extrusions.

Sailing and diving are excellent. It has many lovely, secluded beaches. The jungle still has many surprises left over from WWII.

[Ratsima]

EDBE9E81-4BCC-41E5-B211-DD061E6711DD.jpeg (153.21 KiB) Viewed 370 times

Saipan was devastated by typhoon Yutu last year. Many people are still living in tents.

The top photo is Ace hardware where you can still buy a single net, bolt or screw. No need for a package of 30 when you only need one.

[caller]

Seems a bit harsh that people are still living in tents. Is this a big issue there?

[Ratsima]

Seems a bit harsh that people are still living in tents. Is this a big issue there?

Yes, it is a big issue. But, people simply don’t have money to rebuild. The Feds offered loans, but many people didn’t qualify. So, what can they do but live in the tents hey got?

[Ratsima]

The return trip from Saipan to Bangkok was much better than the trip out.

My flight from Saipan to Hong Kong on HK Express was due to depart at 5:40 AM. I got to the airport at 4:30, having read this on the HK Express web site:

Counter check-in: Opens 3 hours before and closes 1 hour before scheduled departure time.

Even though I was an hour and ten minutes early, the counter was closed. Someone walked by and asked if I was flying the HK Express. I said I was and she replied that the counter was already closed. But, she make a call and said, "Well, he's here." So, the reopened checkin which was quite a chore. First they had to find the laptop they use for check in and figure out which cables went where. Then they had to find some blank boarding passes to load into the printer. Eventually I did get a boarding pass.

But, when I got to outbound US Immigration, it too was closed. No ICE officers in sight. So, I just walked on through and found some TSA inspectors at the X-Ray machine. That went smoothly and departure was actually ten minutes early. I did have to pay HK Express five bucks for a bad cup of coffee. Actually a worse airline than Air Asia, IMHO.
.

HK.jpg (112.62 KiB) Viewed 211 times

.

Since I already had a Cathay Pacific boarding pass for the HK to Bangkok flight, I didn't need to go through Immigration and Customs in Hong Kong; just through the transfer security check. (I was happy to see that Cathay actually uses the Apple Wallet boarding pass. No need to print one out.)

This time I was in Terminal 1; a huge improvement over Terminal 2. Plenty of places to eat and browse. I had a nice breakfast for fifteen dollars at a place called Beef And Liberty which had a fine selection of beer. Too early for me to start drinking. They take Apple Pay which was a nice convenience.

Getting through Suvarnabhumi was nice a quick. Short lines and Immigration and plenty of taxis waiting. I still hate the place, though. Makes me think of a cold storage locker.

[Ratsima]

Top is a Japanese bunker at Obyan Beach at the south end of Saipan. Bottom is nearby Ladder Beach

obyan.jpg (180.46 KiB) Viewed 176 times

[Ratsima]

The Northern Marianas College was hit hard. Many classrooms were destroyed by Typhoon Yutu so classes are now being held in tents. And, what's left of the gymnasium.

nmc2.jpg (109.05 KiB) Viewed 170 times

[caller]

Thanks for posting this. I know / knew nothing of Saipan and it doesn't seem on many visitors radar either!