The PC will not come on at home but it works when I take it to the shop
I guess that you are referring to the PSU inside a desktop computer?
It may be polarity sensitive in the context of active and neutral supply source. You could try swapping the plug top(the bit you plug into the wall socket)conductors to opposite pins. As it is probably a moulded plug you would need to cut it off and fit a rewireable plug, making sure which coloured wire is going to each pin at present. Not normally a problem which way around active and neutral is, but worth a try.
May you be in heaven half an hour before the devil know`s you`re dead!
I have an ACER laptop that is some years old now. The battery died long ago and the price of a new battery was probably more than the PC is worth. So now it's constantly plugged into the mains. We've had many power surges and fluctuations. Just recently after a transformer 'exploded' the power was dipping to around 50v up to 200v. Of course, the mains cable has an adapter which I believe drops the power to 12v. The laptop has worked perfectly through these surges and fluctuations. When we had a massive surge, the only casualty was a very expensive oven. The control board was fried.
What I'm getting at: Are laptops less sensitive to power fluctuations these days?
Nereus wrote: ↑Wed Oct 09, 2019 3:39 pm
I guess that you are referring to the PSU inside a desktop computer?
It may be polarity sensitive in the context of active and neutral supply source. You could try swapping the plug top(the bit you plug into the wall socket)conductors to opposite pins. As it is probably a moulded plug you would need to cut it off and fit a rewireable plug, making sure which coloured wire is going to each pin at present. Not normally a problem which way around active and neutral is, but worth a try.
No, the mainboard.
I took the PSU out and installed it into my son's PC which fired up no problems so that at least can be eliminated.
I suspected the mobo was dodgy but that doesn't explain how they can power it up in two different shops.
Our place is a ring main with dedicated live, neutral and fully earthed three pin sockets so not your average Thai wired house with two pin outlets that can be swapped. The PC also worked for the first six months I had it so this problem has totally flummoxed me ... though our supply issues have worsened considerably.
HHTel, most laptops tend to have some kind of power protection built in - it is how they effortlessly switch from mains to battery and back again.
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
HHTel wrote:What I'm getting at: Are laptops less sensitive to power fluctuations these days?
Its not the Laptop per se, but the inline power supply. If you have a close look at the input it is probably in the order of 100 to 240 volts, 50 / 60 Hz. The output less than 20 volts DC. So the Laptop is isolated from surges.
May you be in heaven half an hour before the devil know`s you`re dead!
Buksida - What nerious said about polarity is worth investigating. Regardles of what type wall sockets you have some electricians are careless about polarity, even falang ones. Are you plugging it directly into the wall, or UPS. With flat blade plugs the narrow blade is line and the wide blade is neutral. Looking at the wall, if earth socket is up (on top) the line socket is on left and neutral is on right. With your volt meter check for 220~230v between line and earth. Neutral to earth shud be zero but might be 1~3v depending on what is going on with your house. As tests in the shops were Ok, Cord to power supply is probably OK but worth checking if all else fails.
I had a british polarity tester and using a strait thru adapter for Thai sockets it showed our whole house wired with polarity reversed. Was ready to do a lot of work until double checking with a volt meter and have been told, “yes its true. With reference to the earth pin on the plug and in the socket, England wires line and neutral backward to what is done here and in most of the world” So, who wired your house??
We wired it and tested it ourselves - my pal is UK and navy qualified ETO so we know there is nothing wrong with the wiring (house is seven years old and computers have worked so far) though I will do the reverse plug test just to be sure. Tried both direct and via UPS - I know the UPS is fried now so that is out of the equation and in the bin, no point buying another one with a PC that wont play. Naturally the dudes in the computer shop didn't have a clue as it worked there.
I've tested different sockets with the multimeter and all read around 228v. Also tried the machine in the neighbours house and it wouldn't fire up there which points a bigger finger at the local supply to our soi.
Either way it doesn't look like any of these AVS/AVR/UPS jobbys will help in this situ as they can't convert shit into gold!
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
In a civilized country you could sue the electricity board, I'd be owed a tidy sum for the collection of fried appliances I've accumulated over the years!
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
The part at the top rotates an arm with the pickup brush and also has a cooling fan mounted on it. The main coil winding is hard wired to the supply and the rotating "brush" picks up the output voltage, driven around by the sensing electronics and small motor and gearbox to maintain a stable output voltage. Input line voltage range can vary depending on individual models, but can be in the range of around a low of 130 volts, up to a high of 260 / 270 volts. Output is maintained at 220 volts.
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May you be in heaven half an hour before the devil know`s you`re dead!
