Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
My travel bug was far from full and feet were still itching following the premature end of our Indonesia trip so I decided a little walkabout was needed. It had been around 14 years since I visited Thailand’s northern provinces and with flights being so cheap I jumped on a plane to Chiang Mai.
Thailand’s second biggest city looks like a sprawling mess from the air, no Bangkok high-rises here though and it definitely feels more laid back on the ground despite the traffic. I had no idea where I was going or staying so climbed into on a songtaew at the airport, got off in town, and wandered into a place called the Travellers Inn in Soi Loi Kroh. A room for under 500 baht with a/c, hot water, tv, and fridge sounded good to me!
This was definitely the tourist soi, every third shop offers massage; the other two are either bars or restaurants! After a night of chewing the fat and sinking a few cold ones with the local expats it was time to continue the journey. Chiang Mai is a city for shoppers, but city it is and my real reason for coming up here was to get on two wheels and explore the hills. This is touring country so big bike rental places are everywhere here; I didn’t want a rocket ship so opted for a Honda CRF Motard which cost 700 baht per day to rent.
My destination was Pai, around 150 kilometers and 762 corners away in the highlands of Mae Hong Son province. The ride was fantastic; the 1095 is one of the most picturesque roads in Thailand with every corner yielding a new vista over green carpeted valleys. What should have taken 2-3 hours took me considerably longer as the urge to get off the bike and take another photo came frequently. Quaint little coffee shops, ramshackle villages, gravity defying hairpins, and more twists and turns than a snake made up pretty much most of the route.
More to follow ...
Thailand’s second biggest city looks like a sprawling mess from the air, no Bangkok high-rises here though and it definitely feels more laid back on the ground despite the traffic. I had no idea where I was going or staying so climbed into on a songtaew at the airport, got off in town, and wandered into a place called the Travellers Inn in Soi Loi Kroh. A room for under 500 baht with a/c, hot water, tv, and fridge sounded good to me!
This was definitely the tourist soi, every third shop offers massage; the other two are either bars or restaurants! After a night of chewing the fat and sinking a few cold ones with the local expats it was time to continue the journey. Chiang Mai is a city for shoppers, but city it is and my real reason for coming up here was to get on two wheels and explore the hills. This is touring country so big bike rental places are everywhere here; I didn’t want a rocket ship so opted for a Honda CRF Motard which cost 700 baht per day to rent.
My destination was Pai, around 150 kilometers and 762 corners away in the highlands of Mae Hong Son province. The ride was fantastic; the 1095 is one of the most picturesque roads in Thailand with every corner yielding a new vista over green carpeted valleys. What should have taken 2-3 hours took me considerably longer as the urge to get off the bike and take another photo came frequently. Quaint little coffee shops, ramshackle villages, gravity defying hairpins, and more twists and turns than a snake made up pretty much most of the route.
More to follow ...
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
More to follow...
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
- pharvey
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Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Some great photo's once again buks - certainly looking forward to future installments on this trip as it's an area the LHG and I would love to explore....... although would have to be on 4 wheels.
"Hope is a good thing, maybe the best of things" - Yma o Hyd.
Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Echo what PH say's. Never been that up way and that road looks great!
Talk is cheap
Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Great pictures!
Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Pai itself is a small town nestled on a river in a postcard perfect valley. It has been labeled the khao san road of the north and has all the feel and ambiance of a laid back beach town … without the beach. Again, not having a plan I rode into the center and headed for the river to find a bed for the night. This is backpacker territory so cheap rooms far outnumber the swanky resorts found in Hua Hin, Samui and Phuket - 300 baht had me a bed for the night.
The walking streets of Pai are lined with t-shirt vendors, souvenir shops, restaurants and funky little bars. It is a bit of a hippy retreat so there were also a range of ‘herbal’ commodities, natural healing, Reike courses, tattoos, river rafting, trekking activities and the like. After a day I’d had my fill of Chinese tourists and the dreadlock and banana pancake crowd (I aint 25 anymore) so saddled up and headed north for the hills in search of a friend who lived up this way and a bit of serenity.
More to follow...
The walking streets of Pai are lined with t-shirt vendors, souvenir shops, restaurants and funky little bars. It is a bit of a hippy retreat so there were also a range of ‘herbal’ commodities, natural healing, Reike courses, tattoos, river rafting, trekking activities and the like. After a day I’d had my fill of Chinese tourists and the dreadlock and banana pancake crowd (I aint 25 anymore) so saddled up and headed north for the hills in search of a friend who lived up this way and a bit of serenity.
More to follow...
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Thanks buksida. Made my day. I am really looking forward to leaving Phuket and retiring in the North where my girlfriend is from. What do you think of the locals there compared to Hua Hin and Phuket?
We are all living in 'the good old days' of the future.
Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
In Chiang Mai they are harsh, very used to tourists and quite arrogant with it, no longer the land of smiles.
You need to get well away from the tourist traps to find genuine Thai friendliness and hospitality.
You need to get well away from the tourist traps to find genuine Thai friendliness and hospitality.
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
- Bamboo Grove
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Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Maybe things have changed from 2004 when I lived there but I would quite disagree with Buksida. In those days people were very friendly in Chiang Mai, much more so than in Hua Hin. Then again I hardly ever ventured to the tourist spots near the down town area.
Back in Bamboo Grove
http://bamboogrovestories.blogspot.com/
http://bamboogrovestories.blogspot.com/
Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
I also went there first in 1999 and it was a different place. Today it is flooded with Chinese and the Thais are very indifferent towards tourists and almost aggressive at times.
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
- Ginjaninja
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Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Excellent photos B.
Hope we can arrange another two-wheeled adventure soon.
I think Hilux was contemplating a trip North in January, maybe you will be interested in joining him (and hopefully me if I'm home).
Burapa will be coming up pretty rapidly too, make sure the dates are in your diary.
GN.
Hope we can arrange another two-wheeled adventure soon.
I think Hilux was contemplating a trip North in January, maybe you will be interested in joining him (and hopefully me if I'm home).
Burapa will be coming up pretty rapidly too, make sure the dates are in your diary.
GN.
Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Yep, tentatively planning another long ride up there in Feb/March time going via Kanchanaburi, Umphang, Mae Sot ...
Back to the TR ...
Once you get out of town you can start to appreciate Pai – the place is stunning. Epic viewpoints, rolling hills, sparkling streams, lush fields, and quaint villages greet you on every road where each new turn is another photo opportunity. My home for the next few days would be a wooden house perched halfway up the valley which yielded spectacular views across it.
The shock of the trip came the next morning, the temperature had plummeted and a thick fog shrouded the valley like a sinister spirit sent to steal the marvelous view I had the previous day. It is the coldest I have been since I left Australia over 16 years ago. By mid-morning the sun had asserted its authority banishing the chilly mist and restoring the panorama to its full glory.
Pai doesn’t really feel like Thailand, the people are closer to Laos and Burma in ethnicity, and the landscape is far from tropical. I spent a few days visiting Chinese temples, villages perched almost vertically on the hillside, strawberry farms and waterfalls. The next stop would be Mae Hong Son, but not on this trip, I will take my own bike for that ride and the famous MHS loop which twists and turns its way back to Chiang Mai.
The ride back to Chiang Mai was a chilly one as I left early and was eager to get up the mountain for some spectacular views. The sun soon burnt off the mist and it was all downhill into the bustling streets of Chiang Mai where I would spend the next couple of days before heading south once again.
Back to the TR ...
Once you get out of town you can start to appreciate Pai – the place is stunning. Epic viewpoints, rolling hills, sparkling streams, lush fields, and quaint villages greet you on every road where each new turn is another photo opportunity. My home for the next few days would be a wooden house perched halfway up the valley which yielded spectacular views across it.
The shock of the trip came the next morning, the temperature had plummeted and a thick fog shrouded the valley like a sinister spirit sent to steal the marvelous view I had the previous day. It is the coldest I have been since I left Australia over 16 years ago. By mid-morning the sun had asserted its authority banishing the chilly mist and restoring the panorama to its full glory.
Pai doesn’t really feel like Thailand, the people are closer to Laos and Burma in ethnicity, and the landscape is far from tropical. I spent a few days visiting Chinese temples, villages perched almost vertically on the hillside, strawberry farms and waterfalls. The next stop would be Mae Hong Son, but not on this trip, I will take my own bike for that ride and the famous MHS loop which twists and turns its way back to Chiang Mai.
The ride back to Chiang Mai was a chilly one as I left early and was eager to get up the mountain for some spectacular views. The sun soon burnt off the mist and it was all downhill into the bustling streets of Chiang Mai where I would spend the next couple of days before heading south once again.
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Full trip report and gallery here: http://ontheroadasia.com/pai.php
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
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Re: Photo trip report: Chiang Mai to Pai
Great pictures! I spent time in a small town east of Chang Mai called San Kamphaeng. It was very friendly and laid back. I stayed with Thai friends for 10 days, sorry it was long ago and I didn't get any good pictures, as I only had a film camera that was acting up. I remember a hot springs near by
which we all enjoyed for an afternoon. I hope to go back there someday and get a bunch of pictures
then. Meanwhile, it is always good to see the scenery in the north.
Stargeezer
which we all enjoyed for an afternoon. I hope to go back there someday and get a bunch of pictures
then. Meanwhile, it is always good to see the scenery in the north.
Stargeezer
Pluto is my favorite planet!, especially now that we all can see close up
pictures of it.
pictures of it.